Archive for the ‘fashioners’ Category

The Vera Company blog

Wednesday, July 8th, 2009

Most women I know like scarves, but are confused by them. Including me. But really, we aren’t French, and we don’t come from money, so it’s unreasonable to expect we’d have any inborn ability to understand The Scarf.

For this reason, I need to give a shout-out to The Vera Company’s blog. Posting is somewhat irregular, but does include detailed instructions for imaginative scarf usage.

The Vera Company is a revival of the original textiles/fashions/housewares concern founded by Vera Neumann in 1947. Fuzzylizzie put together a nice history of Vera, too.

Vintage Vera scarves are available at many thrift stores for less than bus fare. That means you can hold out for a good silk one with a representative print of bugs and/or flowers. You can also get one eBay or etsy if you’re impatient:


More Malia

Sunday, June 28th, 2009

A few weeks ago I promised a sequel to my post on Hawaiian resort label Malia.

Malia International was founded in the early 1960s by Bill and Mary Foster, a husband-and-wife team who met at Stanford University, then moved to Bill’s native Hawaii. The company began in as a textile concern, but Bill soon suggested that Mary try her hand at designing garments. Their early forays into fashion design were somewhat rocky, but by 1970 the company was a leading resortwear manufacturer. They also kept the textile printing and distribution side going, as well as a uniform division that supplied hotels, restaurants and airlines. Later, the Fosters attempted to expand Malia International beyond the islands, and even opened a West Coast office.

The design process at Malia began with the development of fabrics. Take a look at any Malia piece, and you’ll see how the garment was designed around both the print and the structure of the fabric.

As we speak, Malia season is in full swing on eBay !

Malia

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009

I’ve had intentions of collecting this under-appreciated Honolulu label, which was at its best in the 1970s. Besides the obviously great textiles, the dresses in particular often have dramatic, unusual design features that set them apart from most resortwear of the same period.


All via eBay and etsy. Malia skirts and dresses are widely available, sometimes for as little as $20. So hold out for one you really like.

Pauline Trigere

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

New York fashioner Pauline Trigere (1909-2002) made top-quality, impeccably cut ready-to-wear for grown-up ladies. That she designed Patricia Neal’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s wardrobe should give you the general idea.

A friend of a friend worked for a PR firm in Manhattan in the 1980s. One day, Pauline Trigere came in and said to the boss, “You’ve got to help me. They think I’m dead!” Trigere is definitely one of those designers who always seemed to produce clothes that were for her to wear. When I started writing this post, it was a bit of snark about why designing for yourself in the 1950s might not translate into a successful business model in the 1980s. Then I started reviewing photos and thought, “WTF ever, she looked great. Always.”



So instead I say bravo to anyone with the confidence and self-awareness to sell her own look hard for 60 years.

The Fashion School at Kent State University has an enlightening, if mangled, online exhibit of Trigere’s illustrations.

Alix of Miami

Friday, April 10th, 2009

Springtime on eBay means the Alix of Miami dresses are in bloom:



Fuzzylizzie has done some research on Alix of Miami, but like most Florida fashion, this line remains relatively unknown and under-rated.

Mink is for football, diamonds are for suburbs

Friday, April 3rd, 2009

I’ve been on a bit of a vacation binge already this spring, or I’d pay a visit to Valentina: American Couture and the Cult of Celebrity at the Museum of the City of New York. I’ll have to console myself with the book.

Valentina Schlee was a pioneer of minimalist luxury, and dressed her famous clients in monochromatic, dramatically cut couture. She was outspoken and seemed to delight in being contrarian – see two of her famous aphorisms that form the title of this post. Her work, her enigmatic reputation, and her severe appearance suggest a remote personality. That’s why it was such a surprise to find this sequence of 1952 Yale Joel photographs of her in the Life archive :



There are dozens more of these. What a ham.

Key West Hand Print Fabrics, Part 2

Friday, March 27th, 2009

If Google Analytics is to be believed, a number of you are interested in Key West Hand Print Fabrics, a specialty textile and resortwear company I blogged last month. Ever wonder what the company was like in its heyday?




Now you know, thanks to the Florida Memory Project, State Archives of Florida.

I’m currently working on a few more posts about hand print textile manufacturers in the Caribbean and southern U.S. I also just got a great vintage blouse with a hand print of irises from a resortwear manufacturer in Puerto Rico that I’m looking forward to researching.

Jolies laides

Wednesday, March 18th, 2009

These two hated each other’s guts:


Top to bottom: Chanel; 1927 little black dress; Schiaparelli; 1937 lobster dress

Maud Frizon

Tuesday, March 10th, 2009

Super cult-y vintage 80s footwear.




Higher-end vintage dealers tend to care deeply about Maud Frizon, and charge accordingly. Still affordable (cheap even) on eBay and etsy!

Vintage Lanvin costume jewelry

Sunday, March 1st, 2009

Before Lanvin jewelry meant pearls and fussy ribbons, it meant huge chunks of Eurotrash modernism.


Maybe five years ago you could still pick this stuff up for almost free, but now you will made to pay. All via eBay.